I recently lost one of the caps for my nearly new water jug. A quick search showed me I could order a replacement cap (and spout) for $10! I would never pay that kind of money for a few cents worth of plastic. Instead of throwing away this really nice jugs I decided to design a replacement cap in Fusion 360 instead using the cap from my second can as a reference. The water can in question is this one which we purchased from Amazon: http://amzn.to/29JFeCw
New 3D printed hiking pole end caps. Designed to fit into the repurposed golf clubs my wife used. Find it on Thingiverse.
I lieu of the nearly constant inexpliciple crashes I have been encountering with Slic3r I decided to try and get Cura working with my now (Ancient) Makerbot Thing-O-Matic running Sailfish. It wasn’t really terribly hard to get into Cura after the legwork with Slic3r was done. I just needed to slightly correct the Gcode coming out of cure before it was fed into the GPX post-processor to generate X3G for the printer.
My basic slicing profile can be found here: Cura Thing-O-Matic Profile
In addition to this profile I made a slight tweak to the previous post-processor script I had written for Slic3r. This removes the CURA_PROFILE_STRING from the end of the code since it causes a buffer overflow in gpx. In addition it maps over the bed temperature and tool temperature settings over to compatible settings for my Thing-O-Matic. Note: This is for running Cura/GPX on a Mac.
egrep -v "M127|M126|;CURA_PROFILE_STRING" "$1" | sed 's/M109 S/M104 T0 S/g' | sed 's/M190 /M109 /g' > "$1.tmp"
# rm $1
mv "$1" "$1.orig"
mv "$1.tmp" "$1"
It’s amazing this thing is still running strong after 5 years of abuse.
I have a Danby DKC14SLDB 5.2 cubic Foot Single Draught Kegerator I purchased several years ago. Several times a year I find myself with two pony kegs of homebrew I want on tap. Only having a single draught faucet was really cramping my style. I decided instead of purchasing a whole new tower with two faucets ($90) or an adapter ($70), which would have required the additional faucet anyhow, I would make it work on the cheap. I set out by purchasing the following items form Beveragefactory.com (note I have been home brewing for a long time and as such I have some old Coca-Cola pin-lock kegs that I normally use – please purchase whatever keg coupling is appropriate for your application): Read more
Everything is dialed in now in Slicer for my good old MakerBot Thing-O-Matic. I recently started printing with PLA instead of ABS and I can honestly say I am getting used to it. ABS certainly has it’s place but PLA does print really nice too once it’s dialed in. I made this fantastic Valentines Keychain for my family members. This was printed called to 75% of the original size from the original Thing posted on Thingiverse. This cool print in place one piece design with moving centerpiece is well done. You can download it here: Valentine’s Day keychain
I searched around for a while but couldn’t find any definitive (and working) MakerBot Thing-O-Matic configurations for my machine with Sailfish Firmware. I decided to go about digging through and setting up my own. My initial reason for doing this was I was having a retraction issue using MakerBot Desktop that, due to it’s non user friendly configuration I just couldn’t get ironed out. I did not have this problem until I updated to MakerBot Desktop 3.5 earlier this week. Prior to that I never had an issue.
Must adjust the Z Homing offset for PLA to account for the additional Blue Painters Tape affixed to the build platform.
Platform must be more level since the “noodle” hardens almost instantly. Perhaps a little pre-heating would help it stick/smush better
Nozzle must be clean. I preheated to the tool head and cleaned it off with some 000 steel wool. This prevents the PLA from curling in and sticking to the nozzle.
Need a good purge/anchor when starting the print PLA oozes much more than ABS
Taulman 618 Nylon Setup:
Adjust Z Homing offset same as for PLA (Load PLA profile with blue painters tape affixed to the build platform.
Print with ABS setting and adjust bed temp to 65 and Extruder temp to 245
Make sure filaments dry – otherwise finish will be sub-par – damp filament is indicated by popping and steam during extrusion
A material datasheet can be found here: Nylon 618 Specification
Over the last week or two I have posted several household repair items to Thingiverse.com Many of these items are trivial small designs but their value to me has really been adding up. I have saved a bunch of money by being able to repair items with pennies of plastic and a few minutes of time:
I recently published a new replacement part on Thingiverse. I recently found the shattered remains of the push button of one of my X10 wall switches sitting on the floor. I picked up the pieces, mocked it up in OpenScad and printed it out on my Thing-O-Matic. Works like a charm. Now I just need to order some white plastic. The model can be found on Thingiverse here: